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After Into Thin Air was published, Anatoli Boukareev and Krakauer had a public battle over the guide’s actions on the summit day. That's why in Eiger Dreams, most of those were originally published in Outside orSmithsonian. Eiger Direct, the John Harlin Route. Christian Bonington, Alpine Club. THE term “last great problem” must be one of the most over-used clich. In recent times a new “last great. Http:// http:// DIE/DIE-WEISSE-SPINNE-GESCHICHTE-EIGER-NORDWAND.pdf. Under the Banner of Heaven ePub (Adobe DRM). Eiger Dreams: Ventures among men and mountains.
Eiger Direct, the John Harlin Route - AAC Publications. Eiger Direct, the John Harlin Route. Christian Bonington, Alpine Club. THE term “last great problem” must be one of the most over- used clich. In recent times a new “last great problem” has been found, attempted and solved almost every year.
- Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men And Mountains . No one writes about mountaineering.
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Yet European alpinists are running out of unclimbed ground. Today every face and ridge has been climbed; wherever there is room for one, a direttissima has been made. True, there are still a few unclimbed lines, but these, in the words of the late Lionel Terray tend .
However hard one looks, there is no other face that combines such size, difficulty and objective danger. Strangely enough, the first party to attempt the Direct were the first people ever to set foot on the face, Sedlmayer and Mehringer, back in 1.
Flat Iron, and no doubt, if the weather had remained fine, would have tried to climb straight up to the Spider. Their deaths at least taught those who followed that the Eiger does not lend itself to Direct ascents, for the strata stretches across the face in a series of smooth rock bands and icefields in the lower part of the face, and in the upper part the lines of weakness are all diagonal, seeking to lead the climber to the edge of the wall.
The route that was finally made in 1. Climbers did not start thinking of a Direct ascent until the early 1. Two Poles, Czeslaw Momatiuk and Jan Mostowsky (the latter now living in New York), made the first recorded attempt in the winter of 1. First Ice Field. Between 1. European climbers, but little progress was made; no one did better than Sedlmayer and Mehringer thirty years before. From the start the name John Harlin was closely linked with these attempts. He camped below the face in the summer of ’6.
He did, however, meet Ignazio Piussi and Roberto Sorgato, two of Italy’s best climbers, who were also interested in the Eiger Direct. In the winter of ’6. Italians, Marcello Bonafede and Natalino Menegus, in an atttempt, but they only reached the start of the First Ice Field.
The following June he returned with Ren. I should like, however to describe the impact he made on me, and the others with whom he came into contact. He undoubtedly had a touch of greatness in him.
The impact he made on European climbing and the people around him was proof of this. He thought big — his dreams at times seemed fantastic, castles in the sky, and then through sheer persistence and persuasiveness he brought them to reality. He talked of an assault of the west face of Everest, of piloting his own plane up the length of the American continents, climbing the most difficult unclimbed faces on the way, of sailing across the Indian Ocean in a dhow, of starting an international climbing club. If he had lived, I am sure he would have achieved many of these ambitions.
He was known in some quarters as the Blond God. This nickname was not entirely affectionate, for a person like John inevitably made enemies; he was too single- minded in his projects, too determined to get his own way, too forth- right in his opinions to be a friend to all men; and yet, as one came to know him, one discovered a humility. He was eager to respect others, happy to take their advice. His affection and emotions were essentially warm. He wanted desperately to be liked, and yet would ride roughshod over the people he felt were opposing him.
Everything was black and white to John — you were either for or against him, and there was nothing in between. At times this made his relationships with other people difficult. His strength has become a legend — he had the perfect Tarzan physique and looks, from his blond hair to his thigh- sized biceps. He was a brilliant athlete; he had been on the All American Services football teams, junior wrestling champion of California and had come 2. World’s Langlauf championships only six months after starting to ski. He had started to climb in 1.
Climbers who met him in Britain in the fifties were not particularly impressed, and yet in the last three years, through determination and perseverance he had turned himself into a first- class rock climber and a brilliant mountaineer. He had a feel for big mountains, instinctively found the best route, was extremely fast and competent on mixed ground. Although he had started to climb in America, he was essentially an Alpinist and had developed in a European environment. He brought to his Alpinism however, an American approach, taking full advantage of the technical development that has been made in the last few years in Yosemite. Beyond just using improved American equipment, he also approached his climbing with the thoroughness and seriousness that seems an American characteristic.
He took endless trouble in planning his routes, made use of aerial photographs, and was prepared to come back again and again to a climb until he had climbed it. Climbing the Eiger Direct was John’s greatest ambition. I shall always remember him telling me, .
To ensure speed he wanted to keep the party as small as possible and decided on three as the best number. He had tried the climb in summer, but he favoured the winter since there was then no stonefall and the weather was more settled. He thought that there should be at least one period of up to two weeks of fine weather during the winter and he hoped to utilize this to do the climb, taking anything up to ten days to do it.
When he told me this, I could not help wondering how he would decide whether the start of any one spell of good weather was going to last the necessary ten days, for no meteorologist will give a forecast of more than two or three days. John admitted the seriousness of being caught high on the face by bad weather, and had tried to allow for this by equipping the party with two- way wireless; using this he hoped they would have at least twenty- four hours warning of a change in the weather. He also had a thousand feet of fixed rope which he intended to leave on the First and Second Bands.
If he was caught by bad weather above the Spider he thought he could fight his way out up the Exit Cracks; he had already done this in summer on the ordinary route, when he had been caught by a bad storm. The team arrived at Kleine Scheidegg at the beginning of February. With John were Dougal Haston, a twenty- five year old Scottish climber, and Layton Kor from Colorado. I came out as photographer for the Weekend Telegraph which was sponsoring the project. As the climb progressed I was to find myself more and more involved in the actual climbing.
For a fortnight, there was no sign of the fine weather, that John had predicted during this period. The team put most of the provisions and equipment out through the Eiger Station window, to save carrying them from the bottom. John felt that the problem of doing the climb at all was so great, that this step was justified, because, he thought he could save at least a day by travelling light on the comparatively easy lower slopes.
The German team arrived at Kleine Scheidegg on February 1. We had heard rumours that there were eight climbers from Stuttgart in training for the climb, but we had always tended to treat these lightly. It seemed inconceivable that such a large party could contemplate the climb. They would be too slow, spread over too great a distance; we asked ourselves where they could possibly find sufficient bivouac spots? John was confident that he would be able to move much more quickly, once the good weather came. He was also confident that he knew the face better and that he could find a better route.
But the Germans did not wait for the good weather. They started up the face on a grim, overcast day. After two- days’ work, they had climbed about 1. They planned to dig snow holes, leave fixed rope in position, and carry enough food and equipment for three weeks.
At this early stage however, they did not conceive using as much fixed rope as both parties eventually did. They also wanted to do the climb in one go, and it was the constant bad weather combined with an element of competition that forced the two parties to put out a continuous line of fixed rope and then use it for going back and forth from the face both for rests at Kleine Scheidegg, and for further supplies. It quickly became obvious that if we wanted to do the Direct climb we also should have to adopt expedition tactics. Unfortunately the party as it stood was too small for this type of climbing. One needed at least four climbers, two out in front making the route, and two behind to ferry up all the equipment, dig the snow holes and so on. This was the bare minimum, giving no reserves, no one the chance to rest.
To make up the four, I agreed to join the team for the early stages, until John could revert to the original plan and make a push for the summit. At first there was undoubtedly competition between the two teams — it was a race, the slowest race on earth, as one newspaper headlined it. There was no question at first of the two teams joining up. In John’s eyes a party of eight was big, eleven would have been lunacy. Although he was being forced to change his original plan, he still wanted to go back to a fast light- weight push for the summit at the first opportunity. Neither party wanted a race or competition, but each wanted to get to the top first, so whether one liked it or not, there was a race.
The first major problem of the climb was the First Band, though the bottom 1. North Wall of the Triolet. On the First Band, Layton Kor came into his own. When subsequently I climbed the fixed ropes immediately on his line of ascent I could not conceive how anyone could have got up without using expansion bolts — there just did not seem to be any cracks, and yet somehow Layton had found slight weatherings in the rock. He used bolts only for belays. The Germans made a line a short way to the right, but had to use several expansion bolts for direct aid. This part of the climb took several days and was frequently interrupted by bad weather.